I don't recall exactly what I paid for the springs, but I think it was about the same as the cost of two new springs w/o shipping (or labor). the flatness of the arch like Hunner posted.

Repeat on remaining 4 wheels RR, LR, RF, LF.Jpaul, I guess I'd be less worried about the reverse bend vs.

Remove the caliper, open the bleed screw and compress the piston, close the bleed screw. Top up master cylinder with fluid(important).

Remove the right rear wheel and bleed/flush the brakes with the old pads on.

Remove the old fluid from the master cylinder resevior with a turkey baster.

Therefore, when compressing the piston, loosen the bleed screw to let the fluid flow out of the bleed screw.

When compressing the brake caliper piston you do not want to push the fluid back up to the system, because you might get some crud into the ABS module. I like to use Valvoline Synpower brake fluid, it is a couple bucks more but it is DOT 4. Flushing the fluid regularly will help make your calipers and master cylinder last a long time. You will be amazed at how brown and gunky the old fluid is. I would strongly suggest that you flush out the old brake fluid. Don't get cheap pads or they will squeek. If there are no grooves in the rotors I would just put on new pads. Repeat for the next side and put the wheel back on and remember to torque your lug nuts to the proper specification. Next, install the new brake pads, put rotor back onto spindle and insert bolts back into caliper housing. Inspect the rotor for deep gouges, a blue tint, or if you know you have gotten them really hot before I would replace the rotor. Remove old shoes, then compress the caliper with a caliper compression tool from your local auto parts store or a c-clamp and a small block of wood. Carefully, remove the caliper and do not let it hang becuase you will bend your brake line. Then systematically, remover your wheel and then the two bolts holding your caliper to the spindle. I would loosen your lug nuts just to break the intial torque I would then jack up the rear of your vehicle and set jack stands under your car in the proper locations. I would chaulk your front wheel with a chaulk block or a brick. I would however keep this in mind and be very careful working on your car then. First, I would park your car and setting your parking break will make your rear brakes impossible to get off so do not set it. In essence a brake job can be done straight out of a auto manual for your car and is not to diffucult as long as you follow good safety procedures while jacking up your vehicle and removing your wheels. Hello, this do it yourself project is very manageable if it is brake pads that you are replacing on your car if they are disc shoes it may be a little bit harder. SOURCE: how to change rear brake shoe pads of 2005 mitsubishi lancer

Replace rear springs on shogun sport